4th – 8th March, Haro and the Bodegas

The drive to Haro was very relaxed, passing through some lovely countryside on a beautiful sunny day. With mountains in the distance and the valleys between, far reaching views stretched in front mostly planted with wheat and barley crops interspersed with numerous vineyards. Haro (a local lady said it is pronounced ‘Arrow’ as H is silent in the Spanish language), is located in the Rioja Region in the cooler north western side of the area, lying between mountains north and south giving both shelter and rainfall. The small town sits high on a hill overlooking the valley below, its ornate church situated at the top, from where there are some excellent views of the surrounding vineyards and mountains.

A maze of narrow streets spread out like a spider’s web to the town below with a central square, bandstand and many statues.

We have stayed here previously and having been sun-starved for a week, we took advantage to enjoy refreshments at a bar overlooking the square while topping up the tan.

There are many Bodegas in the region, some are only small wine producers and others have several vineyards in the area producing wines from different varieties of grapes, all being made in under one Bodega name. On our visits to several of the local ones, we learned that the variety of the vines were grown on different soil types, the oche coloured calcareus clay in stair-step terraces in the northern area where some special qualities are achieved. Alluvial silty soils are found in the flatter areas near the rivers, they are easily worked and various types of crops can grow on them. Lastly the reddish ferrous clay on the ridged slopes of the mountains that separate the valleys between the rivers of the southern area.

The main grape varieties used by the Bodegas are different depending on the wine being produced. We tried several made with Tempranillo and blends also adding proportions of Garnacha and Manzuelo which made lovely smooth red wines with lots of taste and a long finish. Most of the wines are red, however, we did find a few white wines produced from Verdejo and Viura at one Bodega which were lovely; fruity, dry and crisp. Also we tried some rosé, a very pale made mainly from Viura with a small percentage of Tempranillo where the skins are left in for only a short time to give the colour. I preferred the more definite flavour of a rosé made 100% with Tempranillo grapes, the skins left in for longer which flavoured and coloured it to a greater depth. We also found one Bodega with sparkling wines which were wonderful.

At all the Bodegas we saw numerous barrels which made from French oak and American oak. They are used for aging the wines and imparting flavour over 2 to 3 years, then aging continues in the bottle, some for a similar time scale. I found I don’t particularly like these oaked wines too much which is just as well as they are in a price range which I wouldn’t pay!  Each barrel holds around 300 bottles so the buildings were vast to accommodate them, one Bodega had an underground tunnel lined with barrels which naturally kept an even temperature and humidity. Generally after being used for several seasons they are sold for whisky and brandy production.

 

At this time of year all the vines are dormant and have been trimmed back in a variety of styles which vary from area to area. Some are cut back to stumps, others trained along wires no more than 2 feet (60cm) high, and we have also seen some on high wire frames where the grapes hang underneath. Grapes are produced on one year old wood, so pruning is done annually. In areas where it is very cold, freezing can damage the fruiting buds so it is generally done later, and depending on how much wood and how many fruiting buds are left on the vine, will determine the potential crop. I would really like to come back and see the vineyards in the Autumn at harvest time to see the difference a season of growth makes. In the Rioja region  the harvest usually starts in  September and finishes in November. The grapes are picked by hand by teams of people from students to gypsies, migrants to families, they all need work permits and it is heavily policed so most vineyards prefer to use agencies.

In 2017 there were icy conditions in April with hail and then a drought, in the Rioja region it was estimated that there was a loss of 50% of production; less wine but very good quality. We enjoyed trying various wines over three days, meeting the people who showed us around and told us about the wines we were drinking, it was so interesting. All of them spoke excellent English and were able to answer our questions, they have a real passion for what they do and the wines that they make, and we get real enjoyment from trying them.

We have enjoyed our travels and having the opportunity to live in Spain, albeit temporarily, and will be returning in the future. Here are a few facts about our trip for you:

1. Set off on 11th October by ferry from Portsmouth. Flew from Alicante back to the UK on 8th December for Christmas. Returned on 8th January to resume our travels.

2. Stayed 96 nights on 26 campsites, 19 free nights on Aires plus 1 paid Aire at Gibraltar. Plus 2 nights on the ferry and one at Gatwick Airport – a grand total of 119 days!

3. Visited 12 of the 15 regions in mainland Spain only missing out Galicia, Asturias and Cantabria.

4. Visited friends originally from UK, 4 couples who now live in Spain, for all or most of the year. Also met Vicent, my Spanish email-friend!

5. Driven over 3,100 miles seeing mountains, rivers, coast, large cities, small villages and many interesting things between.

6. Used 105 gallons (490 litres) of diesel which equates to approximately 30mpg

7. We have now seen a total of 153 species of birds in Spain, that we hope to add to over the coming years.

Finally, the day has dawned for our return ferry from Bilboa to Portsmouth, nearly 24 hours at sea leaving in mid afternoon gives us plenty of time to chill out, just hope the Bay of Biscay is smooth!

26th Feb – 3rd March, Rain, Rain and more Rain

We left Manfragüe National Park behind and headed out on a countryside ramble albeit on the luxury of Bessie’s upholstered seats. We passed many of the fields known as a ‘dehesa’, these are acres of grass with varying kinds of oaks, mainly Gall, Holm and Cork, which cover the fields and are studded approximately 40 feet apart from each other. These field are where the Iberian pigs are raised for making ‘Jamón but we also saw many cattle and sheep in these picturesque fields from yesteryear.

Heading eventually for Plasencia, and having enjoyed fabulous weather since 8th January our luck finally ran out. It rained hard all night and with nothing to do nearby we decided to move on again, having the excitement of a supermarket shop enroute. Still raining hard the subsequent campsite was a huge disappointment, like a refugee camp was my exact description! There were 50 + caravans with various add-on bits of tatty tent and awnings, all abandoned for the winter, years of summer sun having faded and perished the fabric, puddles everywhere, the river rose alarmingly over night and so with great haste we left next morning.

We never saw anything in Plasencia and high-tailed out of there 188 miles east, in yet more rain to Aranjuez, south of Madrid; the forecast was better and so was the campsite. With a four hour non stop drive under my belt I felt well satisfied and we went for a walk around the old town area of Aranjuez before descending on the campsite bar for a few sniffters before dinner, and before the rain caught up with us again!

We had to wait until 2.30 pm next day for the rain to stop, a well paced walk got us to the Royal Palace for the free 3pm opening and I even had a little blue sky for my photographs enroute!

The Palace, buildings and gardens were declared a World Heritage Site in 2001. It is a ‘U’ shaped building with formal area/garden, shrubs and trees on the side that fronts the road. At the front of the Palace, two storey high side wings lead to the main middle section from a courtyard inside the gates, built over five archways making it three storeys high it certainly looks grand. No photography is allowed inside the Palace, there is CCTV and guards in each room, but I will try and give a brief overview. From the formal courtyard up steps and under the archways, the ground floor entrance rooms hold several horse carriages from different eras. The central area has a majestic staircase with a massive chandelier in the centre leading to the Palace rooms. There were so many different rooms, all brightly coloured and well lit, each finely furnished with interesting pieces including several beautiful bedroom sets decorated with inlaid patterns of different woods. Other pieces included two elegant pianos, display cabinets, colourful and delicate Chippendale chairs, some sets had 12 and 14 chairs, lovely long elegant curtains and colourful wallpaper, lots of geometric marble floors and also massive carpets.

One ‘stand-out’ room for me was the ‘Porcelain Room’ which was entirely different from any others. All the walls were backed by white porcelain, the surface of which was covered with highly coloured, elaborate porcelain Recoco decoration. Many scenes were depicted including Chinese figures, animals, vines, fruits, flower garlands, animals and birds. From top to bottom of the room, the fine decorative works are reflected back by eight full height mirrors complete with candle holders on each side, and a massive central porcelain chandelier with a central palm tree and a Chinese man with a monkey. It was very ostentatious and I don’t think I’d want to live with it.

We purchased a book and these photos are taken from that.

Numerous enormous painting occupied much of the walls, but also huge tapestries which apparently helped insulate them. Large windows looked out over the various garden areas, mainly formal gravel areas holding plants and trees. In short, it was utterly fantastic, if you ever get the chance to visit, you can do so free on Wednesday and Thursday afternoons between 3-5pm or for €9 per adult at other times; it is well worth the entrance fee. Each visitor can choose to have an audio and visual commentary screen which is invaluable and gives added detail and close up views of furniture or decoration details. We thoroughly enjoyed our afternoon in the Palace, but as we exited the building we found it was raining again.

Arriving in Burgos a day later we waited over night hoping it would be dry so we could walk two miles alongside the river to visit the famous cathedral. Awakening to some patchy blue skies, we hot-footed it into the city passing the Teatro Principal with a wonderful horse statue.

A beautiful square called Plaza Major was surrounded by lovely colourful building and the Case Consistorial with its stone pillars supporting the impressive building above. The pillars we marked with the river flood levels from 1874 and 1930 which Chris stood by to give you an idea how deep it was.

 

Later we admired the strange trees with looped and conjoined branches that formed circles and joined one tree to another. Streets were lined with these trees, now with the bare branches of winter they looking very sculptural, and I tried to imagine them in summer with leaves maybe looking like huge umbrellas.

 

 

 

 

The day was by now quite dull with a breeze to chill to the marrow, time for a Danish pastry and cup of China tea with cardamom pods, a nice subtle spicy overtone.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Cathedral of Saint Mary of Burgos is a beautiful building made mainly of limestone, commenced in 1221 in the French Gothic style, with some works completed in the 15th and 16th centuries changing the spires and dome, and finally in the 18th century some modifications to the main entrance. The cathedral is mostly Gothic with some Renaissance and Baroque decorations, it is so ornate it looks a bit like a wedding cake with many intricate decorations on its spires and roofline and colourful windows. We had audio guides which told us so much about the various sections inside, doors, stained glass, religious paintings and of course all the carving, both in stone and wood. I must say it all started to blur in the end, so I just looked and took photos to remember it by.

 

We had audio guides which told us so much about the various sections inside, doors, ribbed and vaulted celings, stained glass, religious paintings and of course all the carving, both in stone and wood. I must say it all started to blur in the end, so I just looked and took photos to remember it by.

It was freezing in the cathedral and the day had deteriorated outside too, a brisk walk to try and warm up had us looking in shop windows displaying all the wines, spirits and foods from the area.

We were passing appetizing smells wafting out of the bars, after choosing one establishment we were soon enjoying a warm tapas and glass of red wine. Fortified and thawed out, we embarked on a self guided tour of the old city walls with the aid of display and description which I had taken photographs of to assist us on our way.

We saw plenty of old wall, some arched gateways, a church, the Palacio Arozbispal and finally the Arco de San Estaban as the rain started again.

By now I felt quite tired and we still had the long walk back to camp, thankfully the rain was intermittent and an added bonus we managed to catch a bus for a short section, it was warm and gave me a rest. It was a great and busy day and we had achieved what we came to Burgos for, it was warm inside Bessie, we finally had some TV in English and a bottle of wine, what more could we want.